Preserve Cashmere: The Ultimate Cashmere Care Guide

Yes Helping Hand is a non-profit organization founded in 2011 and registered on 2014 in Pokhara, Nepal. Every garment we produce is handwoven or hand-knitted by artisans, many of whom are people with disabilities, single mothers, and marginalized community members. Our cashmere is Grade A Himalayan fiber, sourced from the highest altitudes where colder climates produce longer, finer fiber.

Because our garments are not machine-produced, they have natural yarn tension variation and organic stitch character that machine-knit pieces do not. This is a feature, not a flaw, but it does mean care matters more. This guide was built specifically for our handcrafted pieces and reflects that.

Cashmere is not just expensive wool. Its fiber structure is fundamentally different, and those differences explain every care decision in this guide. 

•       Ultra-fine diameter: 12–19 micrometers (vs. typical wool at 22+ micrometers)

•       Unique structure: Slightly hollow fibers that trap air exceptionally well

•       Exceptional warmth: Up to 8× warmer than regular wool at comparable weight

•       Smooth cuticles: Lower-height scales create cashmere's signature softness

•       Moisture capacity: Can absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling wet

Pilling is the most misunderstood issue with cashmere. Most people see pills forming on a new sweater and assume the worst, that the cashmere is poor quality or deteriorating. In reality, pilling in the first weeks of wearing is almost always a sign of the fiber settling, not failing.

A pill is a small, tangled ball of fibers that forms on the surface of a garment. It is not a hole or damage, just loose surface fibers that have knotted together due to friction.

At the fiber level, cashmere has tiny microscopic scales. When you wear the garment, friction causes some fibers to move, rise to the surface, and tangle with nearby fibers. As they gather, they form a small cluster called a pill. These fibers are still attached to the yarn, and the pill can be safely removed without harming the garment.

•       Cashmere fibers are short (36–45mm), while synthetic fibers are made in long continuous strands — short fibers surface more easily

•       Cashmere is very fine (12–19 microns) — finer fibers are softer but more likely to tangle, especially in first wears

•       High-quality cashmere pills initially, but stabilizes after a few de-pilling sessions

•       Lower-quality cashmere keeps pilling because its weaker, shorter fibers continue to break

A fresh pill is a loosely tangled fiber that sits lightly on the fabric surface. It can be removed quickly with minimal tool pressure and virtually zero risk. Left for weeks or months, that same pill compacts and tightens, anchoring more deeply into the surface. Removing a dense, compacted pill requires more passes, more pressure, and more risk of damaging sound fabric beneath.

 Tips:  Check your cashmere for early pilling after every 2–3 wears. A quick inspection takes 30 seconds. Removing fresh pills takes 2 minutes. This habit means de-pilling never becomes a restoration project.

A cashmere comb gently lifts and removes pills without cutting the fibers, making it the safest option.

Use: Lay the garment flat, hold it taut (not stretched), and use light strokes in one direction. Never use on wet fabric.

A shaver trims pills with a rotating blade. It works for heavier pilling but can damage fabric if misused.

Use: Set to the highest height for cashmere, ensure blades are sharp, use light pressure, and avoid seams. Never use on wet fabric.

Too abrasive for fine cashmere. It can weaken fibers and increase pilling.

For a single isolated dense pill that a comb or shaver cannot remove cleanly, sharp fine-pointed scissors can cut the pill at its base. Steady hands, good light, and patience required. This is a last resort, not a general method.

• Make sure the garment is completely dry — never de-pill wet cashmere.
• Work in bright light so you can clearly see pills.
• Lay it flat on a firm surface (table or ironing board).
• Keep a lint roller or brush nearby to remove loose fibers.

1. Inspect & Prepare Check the entire garment in good light and identify all pilled areas. Ensure the fabric is completely dry and laid flat on a firm surface.
2. Start Lightly Begin with lightly pilled sections to gauge pressure and tool control before moving to heavier areas.
3. Work with Controlled Motions Hold the fabric taut (not stretched) and use short, gentle strokes  in one direction with a comb, or slow passes with a shaver.
4. Clean as You Go Regularly remove loosened fibers with a lint roller or brush so they don’t reattach or interfere with work.
5. Final Inspection Check the garment under strong light at an angle to reveal any remaining pills and touch up gently if needed.

For light de-pilling of a garment that does not need washing, washing afterward is not necessary. Remove the pills, collect the fiber debris with a lint roller, and the garment is ready.

For a thorough de-pilling session — particularly if the garment had significant pilling — a gentle hand wash afterward is beneficial. The washing and flat-drying process allows the fiber structure to relax and reset. The garment will often look noticeably better after washing following a thorough de-pilling.

• Rotate garments to reduce daily friction and give fabric recovery time.
• Reduce friction: avoid rough straps, jewelry, and synthetic layers; watch desk edges and bags.
• Wash less: Overwashing accelerates fiber movement. Hand washes only when needed.
• De-pill before washing: pills are easier to remove when dry and don’t compact in water.
• Normal behavior: early pilling is common even in quality cashmere; it should stabilize over time.

Pilling and Quality: A pill is not a quality failure. Early pilling is normal in all cashmere. What matters is pattern over time. High-quality cashmere (long-staple, Grade A) pills in the first weeks, then stabilizes dramatically. Lower-quality cashmere keeps pilling indefinitely. All Yes Helping Hand cashmere uses Grade A Himalayan fiber with staple lengths at the upper end of the natural range, specifically to minimize long-term pilling.

Question 1: Soil Level

•       Light refresh needed? → Air overnight first

•       Body oils or deodorant present? → Hand wash

•       Visible stains or odors? → Hand wash with targeted pre-treatment

Question 2: Construction & Size

•       Knitted vs. woven construction?

•       Individual garment vs. large blanket?

•       Embellishments or delicate details?

Question 3: Available Equipment

•       Adequate flat-drying space available?

•       Cashmere/wool detergent on hand?

•       Clean towels for press-drying

Although modern washing machines may advertise 'Wool' or 'Hand Wash' cycles, Yes Helping Hand does not recommend machine washing for our cashmere and wool products. For full comparison of hand washing and machine washing, see our step-by-step washing guide.

Our guidance is based on fiber-level research on protein-based textiles, long-term wear and care testing of handmade garments, and experience with handloom and hand-knitted Himalayan cashmere, where yarn tension and structure vary naturally.

Unlike factory-knit garments, handloom and hand-knitted pieces have organic stitch variation, which makes them more sensitive to mechanical movement. Even the gentlest machine cycles introduce repetitive, uncontrolled mechanical stress that can:

•       Distort hand-knitted stitch structure

•       Loosen or tighten yarn tension unevenly

•       Increase pilling in high-friction zones

•       Weaken fibers while they are most vulnerable — when wet

•       Delicate scarves and stoles

•       Embellished or beaded shawls

•       When the machine lacks a proper wool cycle

•       Personal preference for control

•       De-pill the garment before washing, pills compact when wet

•       Turn knitted items inside out

•       Close all buttons and zippers on cardigans

•       Fill a clean basin with water at or below 30°C (scarves: below 25°C)

•       Add cashmere/wool detergent per label instructions. 

•       Submerge gently and squeeze/press water through fibers for approximately 1 minute

•       Soak for up to 15 minutes total — no aggressive swishing or twisting

•       Remember: wet cashmere fibers are 50% weaker than dry

•       Rinse thoroughly in similarly tempered water until completely clear

•       Lift with full support, never allow weight to stretch fibers

•       Never wring or twist the garment

•       Lay on a clean towel, roll, and press firmly to transfer moisture

•       Cashmere/wool-specific formulations

•       pH-balanced for protein fibers

•       Free from harsh enzymes

•       No optical brighteners or bleaching agents

•       Regular laundry detergents — typically too alkaline for protein fibers

•       Chlorine bleach — damages protein structure irreversibly

•       Fabric softeners — coat fibers and reduce breathability

•       High-enzyme formulations — can digest protein fibers

Never hang wet cashmere. Water weight causes permanent stretching. This is one of the most common and irreversible mistakes made with cashmere garments.

•       First towel: press (do not rub) to remove initial moisture

•       Replace towel if it becomes saturated

•       Multiple gentle presses are better than one aggressive session

•       Surface: clean towel on a flat surface or a drying rack

•       Location: room temperature, shaded, well-ventilated area

•       Shaping: gently align seams, restore original dimensions, smooth edges

•       Environment: no direct heat, sunlight, or radiators

Act immediately for the best results. Always test treatment on an inconspicuous area first. Blot, do not rub. Work from outside in to prevent spread.

Most cashmere does not wear out. It gets ruined in storage. Moth damage, stretched shoulders, musty odors, crushed fibers from incorrect folding these are signs of poor storage, not poor-quality cashmere.

Four forces damage stored cashmere:

•      Heat and moisture cause protein fibers to felt and shrink irreversibly attics, bathroom cupboards, and damp basements are high-risk areas

•       Gravity and weight permanently stretch cashmere when hung, folded garments hold their shape for decades

•       Moth larvae eat protein fibers, creating small holes that cannot be properly repaired. They target body oils, food stains, and moisture

•       Compression and incorrect folding create permanent creases — repeatedly folded fibers weaken at the crease point over time

•       Hanging cashmere — stretches shoulders and sleeves permanently

•       Storing unwashed garments — attracts moths

•       Using plastic bags — traps moisture, promotes yellowing and mildew

•       Storing in the attic — summer heat causes protein fiber degradation

•       Relying on mothballs — toxic, odor-contaminating

•       Tight accordion folds — weaken fiber at crease lines over time

•       Skipping pre-storage inspection — small problems become large ones over six months

•       Never checking during storage — moths can work through an entire season undetected

After wearing, never fold cashmere immediately and put it away. The garment has absorbed body warmth and moisture. Fold it damp and you trap moisture against the fiber, promoting odor and fiber weakening over time.

Instead, lay the garment flat on a clean surface or loosely over the back of a chair do not hang it. Keep it in a room-temperature, well-ventilated space for 12 to 24 hours. This lets the fabric breathe, moisture dry out, and the fibers regain their shape.

• Always fold, never hang to avoid stretching.
• Fold sweaters into a neat rectangle with sleeves across the back.
• Store in a dry, ventilated drawer, not plastic bins or humid wardrobes.
• Avoid heat sources and direct sunlight.
• For scarves/shawls, fold loosely (no tight folds) to prevent creases. 

This is where most of the damage happens. Getting seasonal storage right protects garments through summer heat, humidity changes, and months of darkness where moths operate undetected.

Step 1: Clean Everything Before Storage

Hand washing before seasonal storage is worth doing for your most valuable pieces. We do not recommend machine washing for delicate cashmere. A professional cleaner will also inspect for damage, loose threads, or early moth activity.

Step 2: Inspect Each Garment

•       Look for small holes or thinning patches — early moth damage that will worsen in storage

•       Check seams and edges for pulling or fraying that should be repaired before storage

•       Look for stains — they set harder over months and are much more difficult to remove later

•       Check that all closures, buttons, and zippers are intact

Step 3: Choose the Right Container

What to Avoid:

•       Plastic bags or sealed containers — trap moisture, cause yellowing

•       Standard cardboard boxes — mildly acidic, causes yellowing over time

•       Newspaper — ink transfers, paper is acidic

Step 4: Add Moth Deterrents

•       Cedar blocks or balls — place inside storage areas. Sand lightly each season to refresh. Replace every 2–3 years.

•       Lavender sachets — natural moth repellent. Place inside bags and replace when scent fades.

•       Rosemary, thyme, or cloves — dried herbs add extra protection and are safe for fibers.

Avoid:

•       Naphthalene mothballs — toxic and strong-smelling

•       Paradichlorobenzene mothballs — also toxic, leaves lasting chemical odor

Step 5: Choose the Right Environment

Q: Can I ever use a tumble dryer, even on low heat?

A: Absolutely not. Any combination of heat and mechanical motion will cause felting and shrinkage in cashmere. Air drying flat is the only safe method.

Q: Is pilling normal in new cashmere?

A: Yes, completely normal. New cashmere has the highest concentration of loose surface fibers it will ever have. The first 3–5 wears typically generate the most visible pilling. Remove pills promptly after early wears and the garment will stabilize significantly.

Q: Should I wash cashmere before or after seasonal storage?

A: Before. Always before. A worn garment carries body oils and residue even if it looks clean. These attract moths. Wash before storing, not after you retrieve it. 

Q: How do I know if my machine's wool cycle is gentle enough?

A: Look for cycles that specify low agitation, cool temperatures (30°C or less), and slow spin speeds. However, Yes Helping Hand recommends hand washing for our handcrafted garments, as even gentle cycles create uncontrolled mechanical stress.

Q: My new expensive cashmere sweater pilled after one wear — is it poor quality?

A: Early pilling is common even in very high-quality cashmere. It is caused by loose surface fibers from manufacturing. Remove pills promptly, and they should stabilize after the initial period.

Q: Will de-pilling thin the fabric over time?

A: Done correctly, using a sharp tool with light pressure, de-pilling does not thin the fabric. The pill is formed from fiber that has already migrated to the surface; removing it does not deplete the core structure. Aggressive de-pilling with too much pressure or a dull blade can cause thinning. 

Q: Can I prevent pilling entirely?

A: No. Pilling is a natural property of short-staple natural fibers. You can slow it significantly through careful wear, friction reduction, correct washing, and proper storage, but not eliminate it. The goal is to manage it well.

Q: How often should I check on stored cashmere?

A: Every 3–4 months at minimum. If you have had moth issues in your home previously, check every 6–8 weeks during spring and summer.

Q: Can I store cashmere in a vacuum-sealed bag?

A: For short-term storage (a few months), vacuum-sealed bags can work. For longer storage, they are not ideal, the complete absence of air circulation can cause moisture issues. Breathable cotton bags are the safer long-term choice.

Q: Is cedar enough to protect against moths?

A: Cedar is a deterrent, not a guaranteed barrier. It reduces the likelihood of moth activity but does not eliminate it, especially as the cedar ages. Use cedar alongside lavender, clean garments, and breathable sealed containers for reliable protection.

Q: Why does stored cashmere sometimes smell musty?

A: Mustiness indicates moisture was present during storage. Ensure garments are fully dry before storage, check the humidity in your storage environment, and switch to breathable cotton containers. Most mild mustiness dissipates completely within 24–48 hours of airing.

Q: How much warmer is cashmere than regular wool?

A: Research indicates cashmere can provide up to 8× better warmth-to-weight ratio compared to conventional wool, due to its fine fiber diameter and air-trapping hollow structure.

Q: Why does my cashmere feel different after washing?

A: Proper washing should maintain the original handfeel. Changes usually indicate the wrong detergent, excessive agitation, or heat exposure. A stiff feel typically means detergent residue, an extra rinse in cool water usually resolves this.

Yes Helping Hand cashmere is Grade A Himalayan fiber, handwoven and hand-knitted by our artisans in Pokhara, Nepal. Many of our artisans are specially-abled individuals, single mothers, and members of marginalized communities for whom this work provides both livelihood and dignity.

Because our garments are handcrafted, not machine-produced, they have natural yarn tension variation and organic stitch character. This is what makes each piece unique. It also means care matters more, and proper care rewards you significantly.

A well-cared-for, Yes Helping Hand cashmere garment, washed correctly, stored properly, and de-pilled regularly, will look and feel beautiful for a decade or more. The fiber is that resilient when treated with the respect it deserves.